Hop On the Bicol Express

After eight years, I am back in the Philippines.  Following a 19-hour journey from Chicago, San Francisco, and then Hong Kong, I arrive in Manila on September 14, 2009. I find solace in the company of Filipinos, many of whom I gathered were returning OFWs (overseas Filipino Workers), a status I was able to discern by the fact that many of them went through the designated “OFW Express” lanes at Ninoy Aquino International Airport.  Strangely enough, I also arrived on the day of my late father’s birthday. A former OFW (overseas Filipino worker) himself, he is the inspiration for my work and my desires to reconnect with the Philippines.  His presence, even at the airport was ubiquitous—from the overwhelming number of workers on my flight (a sizeable number of whom were men), the running scroll of “Maligayang Pagdating sa ating OFWs,” (welcome back OFWs), and to

 the multitude of bank ads that offer tributary “thanks” to OFWs—their so-called economic heroes (Photo on the left: "We Salute you! Thank you to our courageous OFWs.")  

I, on the other hand, return to the Philippines as a “balikbayan” (a returnee to one’s homeland), a privilege that affords me a one-year no-fee stay in the country.  “Are your parents both Filipinos?” inquired the immigration officer at NAIA while I showed her copies of my birth certificate and naturalization papers. An affirmative answer from me led to a reassuring nod and smile from her, as she handed me back my U.S. passport with the balikbayan stamp.   

This blog is my effort (thanks to my friend Karen who encouraged me!) to chronicle my visit here and to share my snapshots of a place that is so beautiful and complicatedly fascinating. I am here for work but also here to take culinary side trips, seeking to reconnect with Filipino food, of course; hence the name Bicol Express. A local Filipino delicacy, which my Uncle Berting seems to have mastered and that which is, much to my amazement, also beloved by Pallavi, one of my students, this is one of those dishes that seems to be evolving and can assume different identities depending on who cooks it. It is believed to have been created by a woman in Manila who was inspired by the cuisines of the Bicol region and who named it after the train that traveled from Paco Station to Bicol (well, at least this is what wikiPilipinas has to say!). It is delectably fiery and can send those with very weak tolerance for spiciness crying!  One thing is for sure—the “real” bicol express—its content and origins—is up for grabs, but for this balikbayan, I happily embark on what I know will be a ride of my life…and take you along with me. But just be warned that I do not really know where I will end up.